Alpine Mountains Fairyland:

I remember as a young adult (because in reality I was never a child…just ask my parents) I dreamed of a place where I could look out my window and see a beautiful crystal clear blue lake surrounded by magnificent majestic mountains.  Probably more of something I remembered from watching fairytales…OK Mr. Disney that whole prince charming and happily ever after thing was a lie you tricked me….however, the other part of the fairytale actually exists in Slovenia.  The castle is just a bonus for my grown up fairytale.  

I discovered the only option by train to get from Budapest to Ljubljana, Slovenia was to take one train from Budapest to Vienna then a second train from Vienna to Maribor, Slovenia and a third train from Maribor to Ljubljana a journey, which would have taken approx. 8.5 hours 12.5 hours with layover.  The only only good thing I can imagine about that journey was the 4-hour layover in Vienna that would give ample time for the pilgrimage to my Austrian Mecca:  Café Central (aka Vienna Pastry Heaven).  I dream nightly of indulging in one (ok a few) of their amazing beautiful exquisite “art on a plate” celestial goodies.

Unfortunately, that wasn’t even enough to sway me to take that extended journey.  Hiring a car for the 3.5hour drive was a better decision in my mind at this point in time of my trip albeit a bit more expensive option.

Good news bad news:  Good news is heavy rains and thunderstorms broke the crazy insane European heat wave at the very moment we arrived to the hotel (not even the bad news).  I didn’t even care about the downpour because the rain felt so wonderfully refreshing compared to the “ teetering on the hinges of hell” temperatures from the past week.  Bad news: arrived in heavy rain to the Grand Hotel Union Executive and no bellmen or curbside help in sight.  Yes, I have grown accustomed to excellent service over the past 10 days in this part of Europe so at this moment in this downpour I am experiencing a bit of no service unhappiness.  Check in was easy and quick so we are now off to our room.  I made reservations at this hotel 2 months earlier and specifically requested a non-smoking king room.  However, when we entered the room it was a smoking room with two “queen” beds that were smaller than US full size beds.  1^st I am super allergic to any type of smoke like lungs get congested, fill with fluid and can’t breath allergic…2^nd have I mentioned my travel partner in crime is incredibly tall Dutch man that is over 2 meters (6’8”) tall and there is absolutely no way he can fit in that “Smurf” bed.  Back downstairs I go:  2^nd room still smoking with 2 dorm size twin beds apparently complaining makes the beds shrink in size at this rate the next complaint will result in Barbie Dream Beds.

Again back downstairs I go:  well the only other option we have is to upgrade to a suite for an added cost…wait what you are telling me is that you give me a smoking room and send me to a second smoking room after me specifically telling you two months ago I require a non-smoking room and I need to pay extra.   Finally, a compromise was reached and off we go to the third room.  The supersized suite was large very large with a mostly King size bed in the separate bedroom, a separate wet bar, walk in closet, living room, and large bathroom with L’Occitane bath products (very nice amenity).  The room could use a bit of updating, 80’s tastic dusty rose and teal are the decorating colors of choice, but the room was comfortable and a great size for our extended stay.  The rate included breakfast, WiFi and access to the rooftop pool, spa and health center.  The breakfast was OK a lot of choices but mediocre food and the coffee wasn’t up to European standards.   I think the big issue for me was how crowded the breakfast area was so to remedy that we just requested they deliver it to the room.  Also, there were no in room coffee or tea which would have been nice.   I have been spoiled over the past 10 days in Prague, Bratislava and Budapest and readjusting to normal hotel service is proving difficult.  The best thing about this hotel is the location and that is spectacular walking distance to everything in the city and 1 block from the old historic charming part of town.  Apparently, I was so underwhelmed by the hotel that I have no photos of it or the room.

Now that we have suitable accommodations, though looking back I wish we would have just moved to a different hotel, we were off to visit a couple of incredibly tall Dutch man’s friends who lived near Lake Bled in the Alpine Mountain region of Slovenia in the village of Begunje na Gorenjskem.  We ventured out to the town they lived in by train, which was a pretty OK experience after the bicycle family finally decided to board.

On this train was no other than “Rainman” himself when he learned I was from the USA we proceeded to have a discussion about American Football (college and NFL) and Basketball (NBA, NCAA men’s and women’s).  He knew by year what teams won NCAA championships as well as the other teams in the tournament and where they finished, who played on each team, where they were now (WNBA, NBA), where they were from, the scores of the games and anything about any bowl game or Super Bowl ever.  Even more impressive he was from Slovenia probably in his early twenties and he could school me at ESPN Jeopardy easily.  Simply amazing the way he just recited all that information.

You aren’t going to believe this but incredibly tall Dutch man’s friend was another incredibly tall Dutch man.  These two guys must be the two tallest engineers I have ever seen and they work on cruise ships, voluntarily by their own free will.…I know insane right there are TWO actual incredibly tall Dutch pirates….awesome.

My “new friends” home is beyond words amazing, idyllic in fact, sitting on a mountain in a small village that is charming and quaint and perfect.  Yes please just let me know whom I need to make the check out to for purchasing a piece of this serene heaven.

After dinner they took us on a tour of the small town they lived in, through Bled, up to the castle for the view of the town and lake at night and the evening finished with sitting on an outside terrace overlooking the lake enjoying my first slice of Bled crème cake.   Nothing better than a wonderful evening visiting with new friends while on a sugar high induced by pastry, custard, and kilos of powdered sugar…on this night for an added super special mega sized bonus fireworks especially because I have arrived in Slovenia (yes that is my reasoning into the fireworks may or may not be reality).  Thank you both so much for the fantastic day.

The next day we also took a tour with Roundabout Travel to visit this Alpine Fairytale Land:  we visited Vintgar Gorge, Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj.  I think the pictures due more justice to just how beautiful this area of the world is than words I could come up with to describe it.   Some days the beauty of the world leaves me speechless (yes I understand how rare this is) and Slovenia managed to do just that.

Lunch during the tour was in a small village Bohinjska Cesnjica (“little cherry”) in the Alps Mountains at Gostilna pri Hrvatu on a terrace above the mountain river.  When traveling through Slovenia look for the word Gostilna:  these are small family run restaurants serving traditional foods using fresh local ingredients.  Don’t be skeptical by how small they look drive up, park, go in and prepare for wonderful food you will not regret it for one moment.

So we sat down and ask them to bring us their specialty beer and cuisine.  Note to self or to you: remember try new things you maybe pleasantly surprised by something you would never choose yourself.    Loved it… great food and none of that brain straining translation or complicated decision-making necessary.  The family was super wonder, extremely helpful telling us about their village:  history, customs and things to see and do in the area.  Specialities here included:  Karst dried ham, mushrooms in heavenly thick rich creamy sauce served with rice or over pasta, wild boar and dumplings….each dish fantastic and unique.

Like all great Alpine fairytales there must be an end…and my day ended the best way possible for me with a sugar high induced by homemade blueberry cheesecake, Yes that is marshmallow creme covered in chocolate (seeing that in the pastry case almost made squeal like a 9 year old girl a bit too excited I suppose) and necessary caffeine in the form of an exquisite cappuccino. I am beginning to like coffee drinks almost as much as pastries…..OK that maybe a bit of an overstatement.

My fairytale adventure complete…now where is Prince Charming and that freaking white horse (I suppose a white boat is close enough)!!!!

Train station to hotel:  Yep forgot to ask the price before jumping into a taxi and giving him the hotel address..huge, huge mistake. Oh yeah you should probably also make sure the car has air conditioning and unfortunately for me this one did not.  Have I mentioned the heat wave rolling through Europe is brutal for me.

Tulip House Hotel.  I booked on of the hotel special packages which included:  2 nights in an executive suite, welcome drinks, in room bottle of champagne, homemade macaroons, free entrance to private spa, free entrance to UFO restaurant, breakfast served in suite each morning, free wifi, free parking, late check out.  The hotel here was beautiful and the hospitality and friendliness of the staff was first class all the way.  The rooms are freaking huge with a living area, separate bedroom, well appointed bathroom, small kitchen with small kitchen table and ample storage.

There was an issue with our front door not locking so they upgraded us to an even larger room with a balcony for the second night.  If I was looking for a place for an extended stay this would be the perfect place…it is far superior to some apartments I have seen.  Again I cannot say enough good things about how friendly and accommodating everyone on staff was.

Dinner:  Wonderful Slovakian food very similar to Czech cuisine which is now the standard all other food is measured against.  The food is tasty and all well prepared..apparently Argentine beef is a big deal here.  The beer so so good….the trend continues for this region of Europe.

Starters were two types of soup.  Garlic Soup in homemade bread bowl…surprisingly good though probably should only consume it when you are with a friend or someone you are very comfortable with.  Cabbage soup in bread bowl.  When I think of cabbage I think of that stuff my mom used to boil in the house that smelled worse than 5 day old gym socks in the summer and then she expected we ate.  Wow I was very delusional thinking I should never attempt to eat it this dish was amazing.

Main dishes consisted of traditional Goulash with potato dumplings and steak tartare.  As, I learned on my Taste of Prague tour the correct way to eat this is to spread the steak tartare in a thick layer on  toasted homemade bread rubbed with strong garlic.

OK seriously by this time on this night I had consumed enough garlic to keep Dracula at bay even 1000 miles away.  I am full and ready to turn in safely for the evening.

Morning began with the traditional European breakfast being delivered to our hotel suite and we are off the explore this city.  Because of the insane heat it was much too hot to trek around town seeing all the sights so we opted for a tour of old town and the castle…by cute little locomotive looking vehicle.

Heat exhaustion has set in and is taking its toll….we opt to spend a bit of time in the shade having iced tea and milkshakes.  Back to the hotel for the spa part of the weekend.  Hot tub and sauna even after all the heat was super relaxing.  A short power nap and it is time for dinner which the hotel pre-arranged.

Left the hotel for our dinner reservation at the UFO restaurant with precise directions from the desk attendant.  Simple enough two right turns, hold on to your hat here because I know you aren’t going to believe this but we got lost.  Instead of crossing the river on the intended bridge we crossed the river on creepy wooden train bridge that probably hasn’t been used since the existence of the Austrian Hungarian Empire.  Like most other detours in my life this one turned wonderfully.  From this vantage point in the city the views were spectacular and there was a nice storm coming in breeze blowing which was a welcome change from the day where the temperature was shoes melting to the pavement hot.

Arrived to the restaurant even after being a bit sidetracked there was still a bit of a wait.  The waiting bar area was crowed (and I really don’t like people in my personal space) so we went up to the observation deck for the 360 degree view of the city.  Breathtaking

Table is ready….the service was first class excellent and the food here was 5 star good; as well as, all dishes were beautifully plated.  The real draw for this restaurant is the spectacular view of the castle and old town area 400 feet up.  I was only mildly disappointed to eat here (yes compromise was happening and yes I understand the principle of compromise NOW) because I am enjoying the traditional Slovakian food so much and I can have 5 star restaurant food anywhere, I am now glad I went for the experience and the view. I don’t want to say someone was right but perhaps someone was correct in the choice.

First course lobster parmesan, main course pork cheeks with au gratin potatoes wow how I love pork cheek especially when they are prepared well it is a divine meal.  Dessert apricot cheesecake with walnut crust…yep dessert envy was happening at the table.

Left with a muffin for breakfast no taxi in sight but only a short walk to the hotel in the rain…..you know from the movies all good things happen in the rain!!!

Bratislava wonderful…..great place for a weekend or the stopping point between Prague and our next destination Budapest.

Prague Day 2:  This may have been the best day of vacation and the one I will talk about continually from this particular trek through Europe.

Late night exploring the town the previous evening (that is how I like to think of it not the fact the last 90 minutes were unplanned lost not only in translation but also in reality) led to sleeping in a little late and missing breakfast.  But hey I have a seriously great backup plan left over chocolate fruity yumminess also know as remaining birthday cake… a slice of cake paired with English breakfast tea (coffee and tea service in room amenity) all while sitting in this beautiful suite a perfect way to wake up.

This day we have scheduled a culinary tour with Taste of Prague, which is set to begin in approximately 2 hours.   I am fully aware of our inherent ability to get lost (slight sarcastic reference to last night), I decide even though it should only take 25-30 minutes walking it is in our best interest to begin making our way to the meeting spot.   Walking, looking, walking, admiring the beautiful city…Sherry Maps (aka google map) shows we are at least heading in the right direction when what appears before me….Tiffany and Co. and that famous tiffany blue box with white ribbon bow.  I see incredibly tall dutch man start to grimace and try to steer me into one of the adjacent street while beads of sweat form on his brow.  However, I am fixated and not even that sexy accent can detour me; seriously distracted by shiny objects.  Shiny object distraction out of the way back, credit limit still intact, we are back on track making our way across Wenceslas Square to the meeting point we even arrived early with enough time to grab a Very Berry Hibiscus Refresher at Starbucks….it is a miracle that may or may not occur again during this vacation.

When I mentioned at the beginning of the post that this might have been my favorite day of the entire vacation it is solely attributed to our culinary Taste of Prague tour (if you miss this tour you have completely lost your mind…book it, take it and love it).  Tiffany’s is great and everything but this is not the first or the last time I will be distracted by the beautiful iconic blue box.

I do not have enough words, expressions or praise for how great this tour was.  Jan and Zuzi were incredible hosts providing the history of the city, cultural anecdotes and a first hand account into what it was like to experience communism providing the negative and few positive aspects.  I know from the point of view of someone born and raised in the USA I had no reference point as to how life could be any different than how I grew up in the USA.  Though I find Argentina is slowing making its way towards some of the same ideals and practices that I heard about during the tour.

Additionally, over the course of the 3.5hour tour I tasted some of the best food on earth and even acquired some new favorites that before this day I would have seen on a menu wrinkled my nose up and refused to even try.  I wish I had a few more pictures but I was so distracted by the food that who has time to take photos.

First stop Cestr Steak House which is located in the old Communist Federal Parliament building.  There we began the meal with beer shots, which were surprisingly delightful and Pilsner Urquell tank beer, regular and milk style.  Czech beer is spectacular and believe me I sampled enough…. ok a lot… and could not find a single one I didn’t like.  Not really sure what that means either I am not too picky or the beer is really just that good…I think I will just go with the second option.

The tasting menu consisted of:

1. Czech sourdough bread with chive herbs cream cheese
2. Beef neck slow stewed with mushrooms
3. Beef shoulder with roasted truffle sauce
4. Beef spare ribs marinated in red wine for 24 hours and then slow cooked for an additional 16 hours
5. “Olomoucke tvaruzky” fried aged cheese wrapped in bacon and breadcrumbs served with homemade mayonnaise
6. Czech salmon trout roasted with peas and carrot puree
7. Czech escargots boiled in root vegetables, baked in mushrooms and served with Saboyonne mousse
8. Slow-grilled chicken with truffle stuffing and black truffles in pan drippings
9. Beef steak tartare served on homemade toast coated with fresh garlic
10. Garden Salad
11. Quail Eggs
12. Potato Dumplings
13. Potatoes with farmers cheese

Geeze, I am making myself so hungry recalling the wonderful tasting menu.  Every dish was wonderful and tasty there wasn’t anything served that I wouldn’t have again and again.  Steak Tartare who knew this was going to be my favorite dish of all time enough so that I had it twice more over the next week:  just a bit nervous to actually attempt to make it myself. Though I miss it enough I may actually attempt to make it here in Buenos Aires I only need a recipe and 8 hours to find the supplies in this insane city.

Dessert:

Yes there was more to come….haha….you just thought we had eaten enough for an entire army but still we were not quite done at this restaurant.  Desserts were just as good as the actual food and a fitting ending to a fabulous meal.

1. Beer ice cream  (heavenly creamy delightful goodness in a cup)
2. Sweet poppy seed buns in vanilla rum sauce (as good as it sounds)
3. Raspberry tartlets for mine and Sophie’s birthday complete with sparklers.

The next stop was Svetozor deli to sample “chlebicek”.  It is an open-faced sandwich that consists of a baguette topped with potato salad, smoked ham, cheese, Czech pickle and boiled egg.  A wonderful small sandwich great for lunch and/or snack or even right now but sadly I don’t have any.

The third stop was an official visit to “Prague Pastry Heaven” the yummy baked goodness smells coming from St. Tropez Patisserie induced a sugar high like I have never experienced.  The previous experience was only surpassed by the sugar rush that ensued from tasting the divine, delicate, delicious plateful of celestial sweets.  Oh happy, happy, happy day.

The plate included:

1. “Vetrnik” round windmill shaped chaux pastry with crème and caramel filling and caramel glaze
2. “Venecek” puff pastry filled with vanilla cream and topped with sugar glaze
3. Punch cake (which I will be attempting to make soon…we will see how that actually turns out)…my absolute favorite from the day
4. Sacher torte
5. Nougat cake
6. Additionally a sampling of macaroons, my favorite was the lavender macaroon

The day ended at the Vinograf Wine Bar where several types of wine were sampled by our group which consisted of 3 couples:  one couple from the US, one couple from Europe and then the confused couple (me and tall Dutch man).  The group size was perfect and was the ideal environment for allowing everyone to get to know everyone else and to socialize as the day progressed.

I wish I could take credit for remembering all the great food, pastries and drinks which were consumed on this day but even my eidetic memory isn’t that good….I must thank Jan and Zuzi for sending the synopsis of all things enjoyed throughout the day….I told you they were super wonderful…..again if you are in Prague and miss this tour you have completely lost your mind.

There was another highlight for me during the tour… the discovery of  Paternoster elevators.  These are the coolest elevators ever….. I think taking a ride on one will just make my day perfect…so off we go I am super excited (OK probably a bit too excited) but all the same I loved it.

YES…. I do realize the simplest things amuse me and make me deliriously happy:  good beer, fantastic food, appearance of pastry heaven and open continuously moving elevators all of those things exist in Prague and discovered on this day…..

Amsterdam welcomed me back to my new home county by name….loved the sign complete with windmill, wooden shoes, and tulips.   And the long awaited Eurotrip begins.

Hotel:  Radisson Blu Amsterdam

The InterCity direct train between Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam Centraal Station is an economic (2nd class €3.90/ 1st class €6.60 one way) easy way to get to the heart of Amsterdam reasonably quick (approx 20min trip).  However, after almost 24 hours of traveling I opted for the even easier route:  straight out the door into a waiting car.  Somedays, I am more than willing to pay for convenience and today I think it could have been double or triple the price and door-to-door service complete with baggage handling would have been worth every penny or more appropriate Eurocent (approx. €50)

The car took me straight to the front door of the Radisson Blu Amsterdam, Rusland 17.  I have stayed at this hotel during my three previous trips to Amsterdam and during those trips loved everything about it.  The service has been incredible, the staff went above and beyond no matter what the request, I have no words for the great hospitality here….So, driver unloaded the bags to the curb…wait something is missing here oh yes there are no curbside bellman.  No problem got this grab the bags go inside to check in they must be really busy after all it is Saturday afternoon during the summer holiday break period.  Once inside I notice yep NOT so busy OK this seems a bit odd…..arrive at the check in counter only to be greeted a bit abruptly by the desk attendant (now known as rude weekend guy).  Waaaaiiittt I cannot be in the Radisson Blu where everyone is so friendly and helpful and this hotel has been flawless in the past oh bloody hell I must have entered the wrong hotel so I ask “I am at the Radisson Blu right”?  Finally, checked in and rude weekend guy was so kind to point me and my bags to the elevator that would magically transport me to the room without even knowing where it was.  The only explanation I have here is the management must have changed !where is Sam?  I want her back.

Just a bit of perspective here because I love this hotel so much and it is birthday weekend I have booked the New Amsterdam Suite (1 of the 2 suites in the hotel) and while I don’t expect them to roll out the red carpet for me I do expect at least the same level of service and hospitality I have received in the past.   The room is beautiful with separate sitting and bedroom areas, the bathroom has a spa tub, separate shower and sauna, ample closet space and huge floor to ceiling windows overlooking the canal.  The amenities include:  unlimited free wifi for all devices, in room Nespresso coffee machine, free mini bar access, access to health fitness center, and a perfect location in the heart of Amsterdam.  There were a few maintenance issues in the room which were quickly taken care by the manager on Monday morning and whom invited us for a really spectacular dinner in the hotel restaurant to compensate for those.

Another perk for me is the availability to have breakfast delivered in your room.  I enjoy being able to have coffee and European breakfast foods as I wake up without needing to face actual people.  However, even in the expensive rooms be prepared for them to tell you from now on put the tray outside and if there is no breakfast card in the room you must obtain one and fill it out because they did not want to take the order by phone.

To be fair the hotel is very nice, located in a great part of town which is close to everything you want to do in the city center but far enough away that it remains quiet and peaceful at night to sleep, the amenities are great and the rooms (I have now stayed in all room types they have:  standard room, business class room and both suites) are comfortable and furnished nicely.  The issue this time is only the complete change in the level of service even since my last stay a mere 2 months prior.  It did remind me that supersized hotel chains are not my thing.  Though I completely understand it is perfectly acceptable and preferable for many others.

Out and about in Amsterdam.  Since this is my 4th visit to this wonderful city I love the fact that it begins my Eurotrip.  It gives me an opportunity to recover from the jet lag, relax and not feel like I need to spend every waking minute seeing something.  I really love just “aimlessly wandering” around the city…you know start in one direction without a plan just to see where you can end up and what you find along the way.  I am also aware because of my directionally challenged issues even with a plan it usually turns into “aimless wandering”.  Over the several days I was in Amsterdam I happened upon beautiful, interesting and what the heck were they thinking places.

Museums:   Anyone who has been around me for more than 5 minutes knows I have the attention span of an ant and yet this trip I decide I am going to visit museums.  The first piece of advice I have is to purchase a Museum Card one price  (€49.95 for adults and €25.00 up to 18 years of age plus €4.95 administration fee) and you can access for 1 year most of the museums in Amsterdam for free and at some attractions you can gain priority access without waiting in a line.

OK there were two things I neglected to take into account:  1) Summer holiday break 2) arriving mid day, both points not conducive for me visiting museums.  By the time we arrived there was a minimum of a 2 hour wait at the places I wanted to visit….hang on I need to stand in line for two hours before even getting into the museum…haha NO.  So the 2^nd and most important piece of advice for visiting museums: arrive 30 minutes before museums open or 1 hour before they close but even better visit when everyone else is at work and in school (off peak travel time)

Van Gogh Museum: Check it out I actually made it into one museum solely because of the priority line no waiting required.

The museum is a bit institutional looking for me.  OK look this guy was literally crazy (perhaps a bit drug induced) with one of the most creative artistic minds during his lifetime being able to take different artistic styles replicate them flawlessly and combine those styles into something that became his signature and the best you can come up with is a square concrete building to house that insanity.

I must admit that while I don’t really understand or get art  I do love the story behind Van Gogh which is why I spent 30 whole minutes there.

Next order of business but for me the most important….Shopping.  Kalverstraat the place for that to happen very nice stores for apparel, shoes, bath products everything you can think of.  Also, I love to visit de Bijenkorf (literally translated from Dutch to English as the beehive) which is a large shopping store very comparable to Macy’s, Dillards etc in the United States.  On the top floor is a self serve restaurant with nice views of the city, great variety of food, excellent hot drinks, heavenly pastries and its own whipped cream machine.  Yes again this one detail of the whipped cream machine makes me feel more joy than it probably should.

Last stop Albert Heijn, aka best grocery store in the world, to stock up on picnic supplies for the 15 hour night train excursion from Amsterdam to Prague.  Living in Buenos Aires with its import restrictions and super crazy out of this world over the top inflation, has led me to appreciate good and sometimes even mediocre grocery stores that at least has a small variety of products; however this store is the mother of all great supermarkets.

To be continued in Prague……….